Menswear Spring Summer 2013 Full Fashion Shows

Kenzo | Spring Summer 2013 Full Fashion Show

At the Kenzo show the design team of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took the subtitle of the brand- jungle- to heart. Inspired by a trip to Thailand last year this collection was filled with pieces covered in oversized colorful animal prints, tiger motifs and almost pixilated camouflage patterns.

The on the go accessories of deer-stalker hats (think Sherlock Homes), binocular styled bags and comfy tiger striped sneakers were well thought out and worked easily with the drawstring safari jackets and the wide board shorts.But this was a collection designed more for the urban jungle then one in Southeast Asia. And as far as that goes these clothes were less about blending in then standing out. The designers duo’s deft use of color, and particularly the introduction of micro patterned prints when most of the fashion world is focused on color blocking and oversized motifs, indicated that Leon and Lim have a clear vision for the Kenzo brand.

Dsquared2 | Spring Summer 2013 Full Fashion Show | Menswear

No surprises here. Dean and Dan Caten took the Dsquared2 man to a party. This season’s club of choice had a edgy biker-meets-party boy vibe. But the designers kept their sartorial options simple. You can have your outfit in white or black, or a mixture of the two. But that’s it. OK, there was one hot pink top and a bit of DayGlo trimming thrown in. With such a limited color palette to the button-up shirts, knee-length shorts and straight pants, the designers decided to play with textures to try and add interest to the bland base. This came in the form of embellishments like a jangling safety pin edge to a sarong, a patent leather lapel on a jacket or a strip of denim on a classic white shirt. Once again the designer duo showed they know how to accessorize like nobody’s business. Their gold padlock necklaces, animal print “Duckie” shoes, studded silver belts and looping pocket chains were what gave this show its energy. But it is never a good thing when it is the accessories and not the clothes that linger in the mind after a fashion show.

Trussardi | Spring Summer 2013 by Umit Benan

The Shape of Ele­gance–Pre­sent­ing his name­sake label, Umit Benan proved that mod­ern ele­gance can come in many forms, a sig­nif­i­cant com­po­nent being the ease in which the designer con­structs choice pieces. In a land­scape, where design­ers cater to both casual and for­mal dress but never together at once, Benan blends the two styles with an androg­y­nous twist for results that are effort­lessly cool. An evening jacket for instance is instantly appro­pri­ate for day or night with smart con­trast­ing shoul­ders. Mean­while, over­size coats are draped and cinched for a sophis­ti­cated addi­tion to every­day items. Con­tin­u­ing on this streak, spring’s pieces show­case a work­ing chem­istry with var­ied gar­ments employed for a mix of styles, washed denim and a light over­coat, fur­nished in stripes or a motor­cy­cle jacket and bil­low­ing trousers. Sep­a­rately, they rep­re­sent clas­sic styles rede­fined for the con­tem­po­rary man, while together they suc­cess­fully show­case the spirit of the individual.

Burberry Prorsum | Spring Summer 2013 by Christopher Bailey

As a spring/summer collection, the pieces flow perfectly. The Milan fashion show featured a wide array of bright colors, and metallics find their way onto things as big as jackets and as small as collars and even bags. They are balanced out by more subtle colors that could definitely be worn well into the fall.

Although it’s not out of the norm for Burberry Prorsum to take a few more risks than the mainline Burberry London; we must admit that metallics were not something that we expected to see from the English brand, however it may prove to be big for this season.

Damir Doma | Spring Summer 2013 by Damir Doma

A Dark Pre­rog­a­tive–Clad in black and red, the man of Damir Doma had a somber out­look when it came to the designer’s spring/summer 2013 show­ing. Clothes had a futur­is­tic mil­i­tary vibe jux­ta­posed with the men­ac­ing hunter. Here, a heavy hand was dealt with lay­ered looks that pro­posed lux­ury and a hard edge. Leather dressed wide shorts and accented every­thing from jack­ets to vests. Blaz­ers fea­tured tonal prints and the fits were over­all quite fluid and loose, often drawn in with a more struc­tured jacket. Although dark at the begin­ning of the col­lec­tion, the sea­son still had its light moments when a focus on white high­light­ing Damir Doma’s skill at drap­ing, cre­at­ing a cer­tain peace in the midst of such a dom­i­nant per­spec­tive this sea­son. Fur­ther soft­ened, the finale pieces included striped silk, which echoed the relaxed sen­ti­ments of the season.

Maison Martin Margiela | Spring Summer 2013 by Martin Margiela

A Vision in White–Metallics main­tain a strong­hold on spring/summer 2013 with Mai­son Mar­tin Margiela being the lat­est brand to show­case the new trend. Cre­at­ing a wardrobe of semi-relaxed gar­ments in clean white, the house accented their pris­tine vision with sil­ver details. When not pre­sent­ing the eas­ily acces­si­ble ensem­ble of the clas­sic dandy with jack­ets, crew­neck tees and pleated trousers, the brand relied on printed patches for a rebel­lious qual­ity, which was ampli­fied by pants and a waist­coat, fin­ished in metal­lic silver.

Rick Owens | Spring Summer 2013 | Preview | Menswear

Rick Owen is looking on the bright side of life. Relatively speaking that is, this is Owens we are talking about here. So yes there was a whole lot of black, the strange footwear (peep toe clogs and leg warmers) and the odd shaved head or two on the catwalk. A designer who has made a habit of creating collections that are asexual in nature, Owens once again blurred the lines between the sexes. So the long silhouettes filled with flyaway panels on knee length skirts, lean coats and modern monk-like dresses looked familiar.


About thematerialsleuth

I work in the digital industry and this blog is an outlet for things that I admire whether its design, interior, graphic, fashion, styling, industrial, architecture, art, illustration, music or other bloggers etc. I constantly search for different artists who do not grab the media attention or have high profiles brand ambassadors pushing their products.

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