Kenzo | Spring Summer 2013 Full Fashion Show
At the Kenzo show the design team of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took the subtitle of the brand- jungle- to heart. Inspired by a trip to Thailand last year this collection was filled with pieces covered in oversized colorful animal prints, tiger motifs and almost pixilated camouflage patterns.
The on the go accessories of deer-stalker hats (think Sherlock Homes), binocular styled bags and comfy tiger striped sneakers were well thought out and worked easily with the drawstring safari jackets and the wide board shorts.But this was a collection designed more for the urban jungle then one in Southeast Asia. And as far as that goes these clothes were less about blending in then standing out. The designers duo’s deft use of color, and particularly the introduction of micro patterned prints when most of the fashion world is focused on color blocking and oversized motifs, indicated that Leon and Lim have a clear vision for the Kenzo brand.
Dsquared2 | Spring Summer 2013 Full Fashion Show | Menswear
No surprises here. Dean and Dan Caten took the Dsquared2 man to a party. This season’s club of choice had a edgy biker-meets-party boy vibe. But the designers kept their sartorial options simple. You can have your outfit in white or black, or a mixture of the two. But that’s it. OK, there was one hot pink top and a bit of DayGlo trimming thrown in. With such a limited color palette to the button-up shirts, knee-length shorts and straight pants, the designers decided to play with textures to try and add interest to the bland base. This came in the form of embellishments like a jangling safety pin edge to a sarong, a patent leather lapel on a jacket or a strip of denim on a classic white shirt. Once again the designer duo showed they know how to accessorize like nobody’s business. Their gold padlock necklaces, animal print “Duckie” shoes, studded silver belts and looping pocket chains were what gave this show its energy. But it is never a good thing when it is the accessories and not the clothes that linger in the mind after a fashion show.
Trussardi | Spring Summer 2013 by Umit Benan
The Shape of Elegance–Presenting his namesake label, Umit Benan proved that modern elegance can come in many forms, a significant component being the ease in which the designer constructs choice pieces. In a landscape, where designers cater to both casual and formal dress but never together at once, Benan blends the two styles with an androgynous twist for results that are effortlessly cool. An evening jacket for instance is instantly appropriate for day or night with smart contrasting shoulders. Meanwhile, oversize coats are draped and cinched for a sophisticated addition to everyday items. Continuing on this streak, spring’s pieces showcase a working chemistry with varied garments employed for a mix of styles, washed denim and a light overcoat, furnished in stripes or a motorcycle jacket and billowing trousers. Separately, they represent classic styles redefined for the contemporary man, while together they successfully showcase the spirit of the individual.
As a spring/summer collection, the pieces flow perfectly. The Milan fashion show featured a wide array of bright colors, and metallics find their way onto things as big as jackets and as small as collars and even bags. They are balanced out by more subtle colors that could definitely be worn well into the fall.
Although it’s not out of the norm for Burberry Prorsum to take a few more risks than the mainline Burberry London; we must admit that metallics were not something that we expected to see from the English brand, however it may prove to be big for this season.
Damir Doma | Spring Summer 2013 by Damir Doma
A Dark Prerogative–Clad in black and red, the man of Damir Doma had a somber outlook when it came to the designer’s spring/summer 2013 showing. Clothes had a futuristic military vibe juxtaposed with the menacing hunter. Here, a heavy hand was dealt with layered looks that proposed luxury and a hard edge. Leather dressed wide shorts and accented everything from jackets to vests. Blazers featured tonal prints and the fits were overall quite fluid and loose, often drawn in with a more structured jacket. Although dark at the beginning of the collection, the season still had its light moments when a focus on white highlighting Damir Doma’s skill at draping, creating a certain peace in the midst of such a dominant perspective this season. Further softened, the finale pieces included striped silk, which echoed the relaxed sentiments of the season.
Maison Martin Margiela | Spring Summer 2013 by Martin Margiela
A Vision in White–Metallics maintain a stronghold on spring/summer 2013 with Maison Martin Margiela being the latest brand to showcase the new trend. Creating a wardrobe of semi-relaxed garments in clean white, the house accented their pristine vision with silver details. When not presenting the easily accessible ensemble of the classic dandy with jackets, crewneck tees and pleated trousers, the brand relied on printed patches for a rebellious quality, which was amplified by pants and a waistcoat, finished in metallic silver.
Rick Owens | Spring Summer 2013 | Preview | Menswear
Rick Owen is looking on the bright side of life. Relatively speaking that is, this is Owens we are talking about here. So yes there was a whole lot of black, the strange footwear (peep toe clogs and leg warmers) and the odd shaved head or two on the catwalk. A designer who has made a habit of creating collections that are asexual in nature, Owens once again blurred the lines between the sexes. So the long silhouettes filled with flyaway panels on knee length skirts, lean coats and modern monk-like dresses looked familiar.
- Detailed photos of Maison Martin Margiela Spring / Summer 2013 men’s (fashionising.com)
- Detailed photos of Damir Doma Spring / Summer 2013 men’s (fashionising.com)