collection Milan fashion week Spring | Summer 2013
Alessandro Dell’acqua tapped into the Tumblr generation for his No. 21 spring/summer 2013 collection. Apt, really, given that half of the audience – whether originally falling into that demographic or not – will have been Tumblring away as soon as his looks hit the concrete catwalk.
“It was casual, Italian and classic, mannish shapes with sexy pencil skirts, very sexy,” explained Dell’Acqua – who launched the No. 21 label in 2009 after he parted ways with his eponymous label – backstage after the show.
It was all of these: a mash up of wearable and cool references which has become the backbone of interesting fashion labels right now. He started with angelic iconography taking pride of place on a crisp white shirt whose back was made of lace and beneath which was a cobalt blue and white layered skirt, and moved onto a bejewelled cherub across an inflated-shoulder tunic top (in cobalt again).
Then came the lingerie details – little bandeau bra tops and pointed corsets – for which he was so well known with his own eponymous label. Shapes were heavy up top (think footballer’s jersey styles), and tight down below – all sharp sassy pencil skirts. He fed some knits in there, too – cool and casual and oversized just the way we like them – and flashes of metallic magenta on svelte dresses that were suitably sporty, but not so much as to be off-putting or put him solely in the sportswear category.
Tougher and more austere looks, such as stark white shirting, were tamed by feminine fabrics – the lace at play again – and elsewhere coin embellishment dripped from the fronts of a dress or T-shirt. But the decoration was never over the top, tempered by the deliberate jarring of motifs to capture the zeitgeist – aka Tumblr.
It was contemporary inspiration for a very nice and – more importantly for today’s Tumblr generation – very wearable collection.
the DNA of the brand
The DNA of the brand is represented by a touch of eccentricity into each collection, using contrasting fabrics to reveal and emphasize the female silhouette. The collections show sheer transparent chiffon off cashmere and double faced crepe, mixing luxurious clothes with simple items, to create an utterly sensual, feminine, and modern look.
There is also an unusual combination of knitwear and jersey with more formal elements from a man and woman’s wardrobe.
Both women’s and men’s collection show fully freedom to express oneself through modern, sophisticated and truly exceptional clothing.
The institutional colour palette of the brand is represented by black, white and skin colour that makes every collection recognizable.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua women’s collections have always been inspired by the raw sexiness and strong femininity of the great Italian leading ladies. These women are free and powerful, characters who want to be beautiful and desired.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s man should be elegant, but not confining, luxurious but not formal with a certain eccentricity and a capacity to balance tradition and innovation in a style that is entirely modern and personal. These clothes have an easy manliness that recall power and sensuality.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua is the essence of made in Italy, the main expression of contemporary fashion design.
images credit: Vogue.com