Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron, the duo installed at the house of Gianfranco Ferré last year when it was acquired by the Dubai-based Paris Group, have been bold and architectural, modern to the max. While the clothes might have been beautifully put together, they might just have been over-constructed – because today was an obvious tone-down and taming of shapes and styles. The result was that everything was of course more wearable – the name of the game.
Lines were softer – signalled from the first white dress out that was still stiff and graphic but curved at its asymmetric neckline. There were lots of riffs on tuxedo styles, which were turned into short dresses with accentuated or scooped-out lapels. Despite the fact that everything was short, it felt long and lean too. Svelte and streamlined were the terms they wanted to promote.
The designers had taken inspiration from the photographs of Guy Bourdin, which made for a monochrome colour palette with accents of gold. And we even moved into decorative territory with filigree leaf decorations circling waists. There was, in this respect, surprise warmth from a house which has been stark and sharp in the past two collections.
To end – and compound this direction – were a series of short jewel-hued dresses, again graphic and square in cut. But at least we could see that there’s potentially something more to come.