the collection Spring | Summer 2013
THERE are usually a good three tell-tale signs that you’re at a Rick Owens show: the goth gang outside; sitting in the dark waiting for the show to start; and, of course, his signature styles on the catwalk – this is a designer who likes his dark side. But he was in an angelic mood this afternoon as what looked like clouds tumbled down from the catwalk entrance and with them came his creatures from the sky.
And out these creatures came in dresses of puffed-out proportions to match those of the clouds behind them – strapless and semi-transparent inflated dresses in soft grey or apricot shades. There were capes that followed in the same vein and further dresses that splayed out from off the shoulder – mimicking the crazed thick brush hair up top. It was like his sky sirens had been sleeping up there for a thousand years.
This might sound a bit too poetic for Owens for whom black drapery and leather is a signature (he did get it in there later on), but it was more feminine and light and pretty, even, than we have seen from him before. Just see the single-strand feathers and oversized French knots that garnished a series of white dresses.
It did toughen up in terms of shape later on – going on to more graphic forms with grey and black geometry overlaid with sheer long jackets. There were sharpened sleeves to lab coats that fastened with a disc and had something Star Trekabout them – in the sense that this was a new species from another planet we had just met.
But it was nice to see that Owens can certainly appeal to a new sartorial species too.
image credits Vogue.com