the collection Spring | Summer 2013
Kenzo has to be the coolest brand right now – who isn’t wearing one of its tiger jumpers?
This morning the said intarsia item was plentifully on display, worn by the label’s avid supporters at the spring/summer 2013 show – and, illustrating the point of just how cult and covetable a brand it has now become, the show was a serious scrum to get into.
But it’s hardly surprising given that the minds now operating behind Kenzo are Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (they were brought in four seasons ago following the departure of Antonio Marras) – and with them they have brought a whole new, yet entirely brand-appropriate, spirit.
“They have optimism and it’s very inclusive. They make fashion fun for everyone. Kenzo is such a fantastic heritage brand and they’ve injected something new into it – it’s so desirable and wearable. And joyful – and that’s what fashion is about,” said Vogue fashion editor Fran Burns after the show, which was inspired by the vibrant jungles of Asia – and to which we were seemingly transported.
In front of us came a psychedelic projection of colour and print (inherent of the Kenzo language), in front of which the models walked: in khaki safari suits and trench coats and dresses; in exotically-printed bustier tops and trousers; in off-the-shoulder dresses cinched with a thick utility belt around the waist; in mint biker jackets; in cagoule-cum-parka jackets; and in those tiger jumpers. This time the tiger came disguised amongst a graphic crowd of lines, its jewel eyes the only thing to give it away. He played hide and seek elsewhere too – on the prints that brought to life safari suits and all-in-ones and Seventies silhouettes.
There was a camouflage leopard print in yellow and blue, and it came in orange and green later. Dresses that ran off the shoulder were seriously desirable, effortless and casual and featured throughout the collection. They also cleverly drew on the house’s signature style.
images credit: vogue.com