the collection of Spring | Summer 2013
COMMENTING on fashion is what Comme des Garcons’ Rei Kawakubo does. And today it seemed like the pressure of fashion – the need, the want of more, more, more, now, now, now – was what she wanted to point out, vent even.
The space in which the collection was shown felt deliberately claustrophobic, the fashion press and audience packed in. And to begin with, a witchy look complete with a mane of white hair and then crowns made from bits and bobs.
The clothes seemed anxious and the fabric choices intense – it was deliberately not wearable at times, for this was a point being made about fast fashion and as the collection progressed was illustrated even further with looks taking on a piled-on quality. They were wrapped and layered within an inch of their life.
“It was like these clothes had had everything feverishly applied to them,” described Vogue‘s Fran Burns of the collection, noting it to be such a change in direction from a designer who is usually so precise – but who is equally accurate in her observation abilities.
“It felt like a reaction to the pressure on designers – even the pace of the show,” she said. “The idea of being compelled to keep adding and just to get it out.”
But that’s the great – and cult thing – about Comme: the commentary and narrative of the clothes which actually, and perhaps ironically, means more than them. But then that’s just fashion.
image credit: Vogue.com