Riccardo Tisci is an Italian fashion designer. He graduated from London‘s Central Saint Martins Academy in 1999, and in 2005 was named Creative Director for Givenchy womenswear and haute couture. In May 2008 he was also named as menswear and accessories designer of the Givenchy men’s division.
Tisci’s apparent fascination with Gothic touches (dark, languid dresses for fall couture) and space-age minimalism (one ready-to-wear show featured white-clad models drifting around a sterile-white sphere) have drawn new attention to the Givenchy brand. Reviews and output so far have been mixed and inconsistent, but many, including influential fashion critics (such as Cathy Horyn of the New York Times and Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune) have homed in on Tisci’s conceptual leanings, as well as his future potential for revitalizing the Givenchy brand and infusing it with his precision and imagination.
the collection Spring | Summer 2013
Riccardo Tisci is the master of mixing beauty and purity while still managing to maintain a tough edge – something he has been busy doing at Givenchy for the past eight years.
This evening he did it again with a beautiful collection that combined serenity and edge. “That’s just my personality. I do so many collections and it’s just a way to express myself,” said the designer backstage as legions of his fans – Anna Dello Russo, Natalia Vodianova, Rachel Zoe, Kanye West and more – congratulated him on a collection that struck just the right balance.
“I looked to the Sixties and the archives of the house for the shapes – the super hard and the super soft. And then one of my obsessions, Carlo Mollino, for furniture details and then put all of these elements together,” he explained, additionally noting the importance of nuns for the corresponding purity and lightness we saw.
nd it was all of the above elements – ecclesiastical through the colour palette (baby blue, white and black), through the feeling of restraint (signalled by rivets holding waists and shoulders in place and worn around necks as chokers), and through the shapes – which played on covering up. We saw curved short-sleeved jackets with circularly-cut arms and asymmetric billowing sleeves that were fixed in place by flounces and ruffles. But there were never too many and they were never over the top – in black to trace an arm or a shoulder or a neckline on a dress.
It was the right side of feminine, the right side of tough and felt just as liberating as it did restrained – see trousers beneath split trailing skirts and exposed expanses of back. Everything was considered. “Sensual, purity and tough,” was how Tisci summed up the collection – all of which he did beautifully.
credit images : Vogue.com